This 600-year-old village feels like it’s been preserved in time: its stone-paved alleys and traditional hanok homes were constructed in the 14th century and they appear untouched since then. Sitting on a hill between two palaces, this is a truly picturesque corner of the city, and rightly a top Seoul attraction. Bear in mind that the houses are still inhabited, and visitor numbers are high – so a polite, unobtrusive approach is best.

Locals have come to the sprawling Gwangjang for their groceries and street food favourites for more than a century – it’s a good idea to join them. Sample bite-sized mayak kimbap rice rolls, bindaetteok mung bean pancakes, and Cho Yonsoon’s knife-cut noodles and steamed dumplings – made famous on the Netflix show Street Food.

Once a decaying suburb in the hills designated for demolition, Ihwa-dong was rejuvenated in 2006 when a public art project brought some 70 artists in to cover the district colourful murals on the walls, streets and stairs. The result is an Instagrammer’s dream – but note that just like Bukchon, the residents of Ihwa still live there, so try not to disturb them.

Psy’s viral hit ‘Gangnam Style’ put this district on the international map, but it’s long been the heart of hip, high-class Seoul. Stroll down K-Star Road, where large bear-like ‘Gangnam Dols’ are decorated as some of Korea’s biggest K-pop groups, or head to SMTOWN Theatre for the chance to relive holographic performances of some of their greatest gigs.

For a taste of Seoul sightseeing old and new, head to Insadong. Insadong Street is the main thoroughfare, but from there twisting back alleys host eclectic shops, traditional tea houses and a thriving street food scene. Grab a snack before making your way to the colourful six-century-old Jongyesa Buddhist temple.

The carefully curved neo-futuristic aluminium facade of Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza – better known as DDP – conceals a vibrant hub for art, design and technology, featuring exhibition spaces, a museum, a marketplace for designers and a landscaped green oasis at its centre.

Seoul’s history stretches back more than two thousand years, but it’s the kings of the 500-year-old Joseon dynasty who truly transformed the capital. Gyeongbokgung is the oldest and largest of the Five Grand Palaces built during the era: it’s also the busiest, but you’re sure to find a tranquil spot or two. To really get into the spirit, rent a traditional hanbok outfit from one of the stores near the entrance.

Pojangmacha are quintessentially Korean establishments: small tents on the side of the road, housing outdoor stalls for late-night drinks and street snacks. Pull up a stool and order up some fried fish or tteokbokki rice cakes, washed down with lashings of beer and soju. Alternatively, head to Euljiro’s bustling Nogari Alley, where students, hipsters and office workers pair plates of nogari – grilled dried pollock – with plentiful draft beer.

There are lots of things to do in Seoul, where every district offers something a little different. Locals love Itaewon for its multicultural restaurants and bars, as well as its thriving LGTBQ+ scene. They call Seongsu-dong the ‘Brooklyn of Seoul’, thanks to its wealth of reclaimed industrial buildings which now house cool coffee shops and boutiques. For live indie music and art, head to Hongdae, near the prestigious Hongik University.

Cheonggyecheon is a testament to the power of urban renewal. This narrow stream was once concreted over during Seoul’s industrial boom after the Korean War – but in the early 2000s it was uncovered once again, creating a verdant 11-kilometre long waterway and walkway which winds through the middle of the city, dotted with bridges, sitting spots and stepping stones. Meanwhile the Han river bisects the city, its banks lined with parks, bike paths and open-air swimming pools.

The Korean wave – or hallyu – has had a global cultural impact, and the nation now leads the way in film, cosmetics, food, fashion and electronics. But Seoul attractions are also big on art and design: at the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, find a mix of traditional Korean art and contemporary works. Meanwhile, the Daelim Museum showcases photography and design, and its sister gallery D Project Space hosts free exhibitions.

From hot springs to hip art districts, historic temples and seaside beaches, Busan is one of the best places to visit in Korea. The laid-back cousin to Seoul is a worthwhile detour from the capital. Make time for Haedong Yonggung Temple, a beautiful Buddhist site clinging to a coastal cliff; Korea’s largest fish market at Jagalchi; and Gamcheon – a former down-at-heel district that’s now a colourful artist’s village.